Bamboo Shoot Rice (Takenoko Okowa)
We’ve been fans of our pal Sylvan Brackett for a long time, dating back to our founders’ early days in the Bay Area when he hosted his celebrated Peko Peko Pop-Ups around the city. When he opened Rintaro, it quickly became their go-to stop whenever they passed through San Francisco on their way to visit our olive groves and mill in Northern California. Now, Rintaro is proudly celebrating 10 years! To honor this milestone, we’re thrilled to share Sylvan’s recipe for Bamboo Shoot Rice, featured in the inaugural issue of the Desert Dispatch print as part of our first chef spotlight.
Ingredients:
MAKES 6 servings- 1½ cups / 315 g Japanese rice
- ¾ cup / 175 g mochi (sweet glutinous) rice
- 2 or 3 dried shiitake mushrooms
- ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons / 200ml warm water
- 1½ tablespoons mirin
- 4½ tablespoons / 90 ml usukuchi (light-colored) shoyu
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- ½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil
- 2 freshly picked and processed bamboo shoots or store-bought vacuum-sealed whole bamboo shoots
- 1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons / 450ml Katsuobushi Dashi *Recipe included in Rintaro, or source from a good Japanese pantry shop
Steps:
Combine the two varieties of rice and wash with cold water until the water runs clear. Strain and let stand for 30 minutes.
Put the mushrooms in a small saucepan and add the water. Let stand until soft, about 30 minutes. Add the mirin and 1½ tablespoons of the shoyu to the saucepan, then bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let the mushrooms cool in the liquid. Once cool, use your hands to remove the mushrooms from the liquid and gently squeeze them over the pot. Slice into ⅛-inch / 3 mm strips.
Line a fine-mesh strainer with damp paper towels. Pour the simmering liquid through the prepared strainer into a medium bowl and reserve.
In a small frying pan over medium heat, combine the olive and sesame oils. When the oil is hot, add the sliced mushrooms and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of the reserved simmering liquid and continue to cook, stirring, until the mushrooms have absorbed the liquid, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the mushrooms to a small bowl.
Slice the bamboo shoots into thin wedges, about ¼-inch / 6 mm thick. Place the wedges in a medium saucepan and add the dashi and the remaining 3 tablespoons shoyu.
Cut out a circle of parchment paper the size of your saucepan, then press the parchment down into the water so the bamboo stays submerged. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, then turn down the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, transfer the bamboo shoots to a small bowl. Strain the simmering liquid through a fine mesh strainer lined with damp paper towels. Combine with the reserved shiitake simmering liquid; you should have 2⅓ cups / 545ml. Discard any extra.
Put the rice in a 2-qt / 1.9L heavy-bottomed pot, Dutch oven, or donabe (clay pot) with a tight-fitting lid (or an electric rice cooker) and add the reserved liquid. Layer the bamboo shoots and mushrooms on top. To cook rice on the stove: Place the pot on the stove, tightly cover with a lid, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat; this should take about 10 minutes. If it boils in less time, you’ll want to reduce the heat on your stove. You’ll know when the rice has reached a boil by the steam spitting out from beneath the lid. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting and cook for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat, and let the rice sit, undisturbed, for 10 minutes (don’t open the lid!). Uncover and mix carefully with a wet bamboo rice paddle. Serve immediately or cover with a damp cloth to absorb condensation that may drip from the lid and store covered until ready to serve, not longer than 15 to 30 minutes.
To serve, scoop the rice into small rice bowls using a bamboo paddle dipped in water.